San Marcello Pistoiese: A Sanctuary of History and Solace Amidst Tuscan Mountains

Alexis McKenney
4 min readAug 9, 2023

The heart of Italy beats not only in its grand cities but also in its tranquil retreats. For two weeks out of the summer, I teach a college class at Dynamo Camp, located in Limestre, Italy, and situated just below an uncovered hidden gem that offers solace and connection to history — the small Tuscan town of San Marcello Pistoiese.

Tuscan Mountains | Photo Credit: Alexis McKenney

Nestled the Tuscan mountains, San Marcello has become my cherished haven during the little time I get off. While the allure of Italy’s iconic cities is undeniable, the serene embrace of San Marcello offers a different kind of beauty — one that invites me to unwind and explore at my own pace.

A Tuscan Town Rich in History and Traditions

Carved into a building, a stone walkway with an exit is showing.
Ancient Stone Walkway | Photo Credit: Alexis McKenney

San Marcello Pistoiese, often regarded as the “capital” of the Montagna Pistoiese, invites visitors to experience an alpine Tuscany away from crowds. Nestled near the border with Emilia Romagna, the town’s landscape is defined by rugged mountains and serene forests. The town holds tales of partisans and Allied soldiers who once sought refuge in its vast wooded expanse.

The roots of San Marcello stretch back millennia, to an era when Italic people, possibly of Liguri origins, inhabited its lands. The Romans arrived in the second century BC, leaving their mark on this town and surrounding areas.

San Marcello’s rich history resonates through its patron saints, embodying the town’s heritage. The village is named after Saint Marcello, a martyr whose legacy is celebrated on January 16. With a unique touch, he is also the protector of horses — a nod to the town’s equestrian affinity. Another revered figure is Santa Caterina, the patron saint of the mountain, whose feast day falls on September 8.

Journey of Growth

The transformation of San Marcello through the centuries is evident in its infrastructure. The Pistoia-Modena road in 1781 brought prosperity to the town, leading to its expansion beyond medieval walls. Economic opportunities flourished, particularly in the copper industry, as the town played a vital role in various stages of copper production. The arrival of the railroad between Pistoia and Bologna in 1864 further bolstered the area’s growth.

A Beacon of Resilience

San Marcello’s significance transcends its tranquil exterior. During the troubled times of World War II, the town stood as a crucial center on the Gothic Line, and its hospital shielded it from devastation. The spirit of resilience that characterized the wartime era remains embedded in the town’s fabric.

The view is of inside a church that no longer has pews. Instead, the floor is now made up of a large nativity scene.
Chiesa Di Santa Caterina | Photo Credit: Alexis McKenney

The town’s historic charm captivates me. Walking its streets feels like a step back in time, a chance to experience the life that has unfolded within these walls. The churches San Marcello, with their centuries-old architecture, offer a living testament to the town’s enduring history. Chiesa Di Santa Caterina presents a unique idea for repurposing religious space. The cafes provide a place to embrace the local culture and rest my feet.

An Oasis of Calm

The view is from the back of a front patio of a cafe. People are sitting toward the front. The view is of part of the main square of San Marcello.
View from a Cafe | Photo Credit: Alexis McKenney

Each visit to San Marcello feels like a personal journey of discovery. I might have to dodge a few motorcycles or stay out of the way of packs of bicyclists as I traverse my way up; however, I am always rewarded with breathtaking panoramas of the mountains and San Marcello in the distance.

In stark contrast to the lively atmosphere of Dynamo Camp, San Marcello emanates an aura of calm that instantly reenergizes me. The town’s cobblestone streets wind through picturesque architecture, and the surrounding mountains create an intimate haven that feels worlds away from the classroom, and even the bustling tourist crowds.

San Marcello offers the simple joy of unhurried living. As I leisurely explore its streets, savor its culinary offerings and Italian espressos, read a book, and revel in the surrounding natural beauty, I find solace in the unhurried moments. San Marcello reminds me of the beauty of presence and the art of taking life as it comes.

Check out my short video on TikTok!

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Alexis McKenney

Experienced writer, researcher, and educator specializing in travel, inclusion, and disability.